Now I would just like it noted that I reviewed and took notes from this whole show while standing on tip toes (sorry I just want it recognised the length that this fashionista will go to!)
The last time I saw Avsh Alom Gur was for his current S/S 08 collection; the seated rows were full (in fact I was comfortably perched on a bench for that one!) and there were a number of standing spectators. However, it just shows what six months in fashion can do! This time the entire room was crammed to bursting with the fashion pack wanting a piece of this design genius (hence why I was about five rows back standing on tip toes!)
As I’m sure you all know Avsh Alom Gur is now also the creative director of Ossie Clark and this has made him (to most) the man of the moment.
The collection opened with a corseted piece and print skirt, which I must admit threw me a little. This wasn’t the Gur I knew! Where were all the beautiful draped dresses? Fear not fashion friends! After what I thought was an uncharacteristic opening (which included chiffon floor length dresses, trimmed in dyed furs), Gur regained his signature look in the form of floor length chiffon maxi dresses, plenty of his famous prints and embroidery detailing.
Dresses were incredibly waisted, and you would need a great (and tiny) waist to carry them off successfully! But they were truly beautiful. Gur works chiffon in such a way that there is a perfect amount of drapery and gather, to allow them to fall just so, always presenting them in a kaleidoscope of colours (this time the main being a chocolate brown).
Also on offer was delicate pleating that emulated corrugated card, and this provided a fabulous contrast of something so rigid created in something as delicate as chiffons and silks.
There was a definite African theme running through the collection’s prints, embroidery, colour palettes and the silhouettes.
Sleeves again were a big focus in this collection and I have seen many a fabulous voluminous sleeve this week (which I love!)
Watching Gur is a textile treat! Where else can I see burnt orange velvet with pink embroidery that should look evil, But in reality looks so sumptuous and magnificent that I’d like to run out and buy it. The burnt orange and pink velvet outfit was definitely my favourite, such contrasts working so perfectly, with fabulous pushed up three quarter sleeves gathered and draped so organically; reflecting the lights of the catwalk.
The colour palette consisted of beige, orange (both bright and burnt), brown (in various shades), gold and emerald blues and pale green and of course the A/W favourite, monochromes.
As with previous seasons, Avsh Shalom Gur has continued to evolve the embellishment trends into both accessories (such as blinging belts) and a heavily decorated jacket.
There was also experimentation of fit with drapery in the form of fitted corsets with chiffon drapery that worked extremely well.
Although this collection didn’t feel the least bit wintery to me (not a bit of knitwear in sight!), it was without a doubt my favourite of the week, Gur did what he does best: beautiful designs in courageous colours, with fabrics he knows he can use to make magical dresses. Having read that he plans to scale down his own operation to fully look after Ossie Clark, I think he is balancing both remarkably. Long may it be so!
Rebecca Baum
International Fashion Writer
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