International Fashion Review: Ann Sofie

Having always thought that models had to look as miserable as sin, it was fabulous to see the girls at Ann Sofie-Back looking like they were enjoying every second of their catwalk troop.
Ann Sofie-Back is one of those brilliant designers who never seems to get the credit she truly deserves; always out on the edge of the inner fashion circle. A shy, creative type (she didn’t even put in an appearance at the end of the show, not to mention that the end walk was done at the beginning, prompting much confusion as to whether or not the spectacular spectacle was indeed over) has created yet another strong collection that stays true to her own unique and experimental style.

Like the earlier Modernist show, it appears that the palette for Autumn/Winter 08 is monochrome (although this time on the more grey end of the scale) with accents of flame red. There were also splashes of aqua; a colour hard to pull off and which didn’t entirely work well within the collection.
The collection was a fun and playful twist on traditional men’s tailoring, with asymmetric, oversized, draped men’s suit jackets in wool, and tuxedo jackets in black satin. Drapery is a key part of Ann Sofie-Back’s ‘look’ and she didn’t disappoint. Satin dresses, in blacks and red, hung asymmetricly across the models bodies, and included fabulous sleeve detailing in the form of spider web like lace.
Jersey staple cream t-shirts were incredibly soft and sheer, many splattered in the palettes accent red colour. The collection itself came across as feminine and extremely delicate, in many cases reminiscent of sensual satin night wear; brilliantly juxtaposed by the masculine jacket influences, which were occasionally styled together, allowing them to hang over beautifully sleek satin dresses. It reminded me of a chivalrous gentleman lending a woman his jacket after a romantic night out.
Knits again were asymmetrically draped, with part fitted and part left to organically take its own shape, which worked extremely well.
There was a good selection of trouser shapes, with some beautifully tailored and high-waisted, as well as skinny tuxedo pants.
The collection would generally only work well for those of an extremely waif like build (think the Olsen twins), as the asymmetry and drapery are obviously meant to engulf and hang off the wearer in a delicate fashion.
More wearable styles include the grey jumper dresses (now a winter wardrobe staple), embellished in silver trinkets and slimming pencil skirts.
My favourite pieces from the show are without a doubt the amazing asymmetric, draped leather biker jacket (simply ‘WOW’) and matching leather, embellished gloves, a silvery wet look pair of cigarette pants (though I wont be wearing them, I will admire any women that does) and the closing piece, yet again draped and asymmetric, but this time in the form of a white satin shirt with voluminous balloon sleeve.

Rebecca Baum
International Writer