Having always thought that models had to look as miserable as sin, it was fabulous to see the girls at Ann Sofie-Back looking like they were enjoying every second of their catwalk troop.
Ann Sofie-Back is one of those brilliant designers who never seems to get the credit she truly deserves; always out on the edge of the inner fashion circle. A shy, creative type (she didn’t even put in an appearance at the end of the show, not to mention that the end walk was done at the beginning, prompting much confusion as to whether or not the spectacular spectacle was indeed over) has created yet another strong collection that stays true to her own unique and experimental style.
Like the earlier Modernist show, it appears that the palette for Autumn/Winter 08 is monochrome (although this time on the more grey end of the scale) with accents of flame red. There were also splashes of aqua; a colour hard to pull off and which didn’t entirely work well within the collection.
The collection was a fun and playful twist on traditional men’s tailoring, with asymmetric, oversized, draped men’s suit jackets in wool, and tuxedo jackets in black satin. Drapery is a key part of Ann Sofie-Back’s ‘look’ and she didn’t disappoint. Satin dresses, in blacks and red, hung asymmetricly across the models bodies, and included fabulous sleeve detailing in the form of spider web like lace.
Jersey staple cream t-shirts were incredibly soft and sheer, many splattered in the palettes accent red colour. The collection itself came across as feminine and extremely delicate, in many cases reminiscent of sensual satin night wear; brilliantly juxtaposed by the masculine jacket influences, which were occasionally styled together, allowing them to hang over beautifully sleek satin dresses. It reminded me of a chivalrous gentleman lending a woman his jacket after a romantic night out.
Knits again were asymmetrically draped, with part fitted and part left to organically take its own shape, which worked extremely well.
There was a good selection of trouser shapes, with some beautifully tailored and high-waisted, as well as skinny tuxedo pants.
The collection would generally only work well for those of an extremely waif like build (think the Olsen twins), as the asymmetry and drapery are obviously meant to engulf and hang off the wearer in a delicate fashion.
More wearable styles include the grey jumper dresses (now a winter wardrobe staple), embellished in silver trinkets and slimming pencil skirts.
My favourite pieces from the show are without a doubt the amazing asymmetric, draped leather biker jacket (simply ‘WOW’) and matching leather, embellished gloves, a silvery wet look pair of cigarette pants (though I wont be wearing them, I will admire any women that does) and the closing piece, yet again draped and asymmetric, but this time in the form of a white satin shirt with voluminous balloon sleeve.
Rebecca Baum
International Writer
Thursday, May 29, 2008
Wednesday, May 28, 2008
International Fashion Review: Avsh Alom Gur
Now I would just like it noted that I reviewed and took notes from this whole show while standing on tip toes (sorry I just want it recognised the length that this fashionista will go to!)
The last time I saw Avsh Alom Gur was for his current S/S 08 collection; the seated rows were full (in fact I was comfortably perched on a bench for that one!) and there were a number of standing spectators. However, it just shows what six months in fashion can do! This time the entire room was crammed to bursting with the fashion pack wanting a piece of this design genius (hence why I was about five rows back standing on tip toes!)
As I’m sure you all know Avsh Alom Gur is now also the creative director of Ossie Clark and this has made him (to most) the man of the moment.
The collection opened with a corseted piece and print skirt, which I must admit threw me a little. This wasn’t the Gur I knew! Where were all the beautiful draped dresses? Fear not fashion friends! After what I thought was an uncharacteristic opening (which included chiffon floor length dresses, trimmed in dyed furs), Gur regained his signature look in the form of floor length chiffon maxi dresses, plenty of his famous prints and embroidery detailing.
Dresses were incredibly waisted, and you would need a great (and tiny) waist to carry them off successfully! But they were truly beautiful. Gur works chiffon in such a way that there is a perfect amount of drapery and gather, to allow them to fall just so, always presenting them in a kaleidoscope of colours (this time the main being a chocolate brown).
Also on offer was delicate pleating that emulated corrugated card, and this provided a fabulous contrast of something so rigid created in something as delicate as chiffons and silks.
There was a definite African theme running through the collection’s prints, embroidery, colour palettes and the silhouettes.
Sleeves again were a big focus in this collection and I have seen many a fabulous voluminous sleeve this week (which I love!)
Watching Gur is a textile treat! Where else can I see burnt orange velvet with pink embroidery that should look evil, But in reality looks so sumptuous and magnificent that I’d like to run out and buy it. The burnt orange and pink velvet outfit was definitely my favourite, such contrasts working so perfectly, with fabulous pushed up three quarter sleeves gathered and draped so organically; reflecting the lights of the catwalk.
The colour palette consisted of beige, orange (both bright and burnt), brown (in various shades), gold and emerald blues and pale green and of course the A/W favourite, monochromes.
As with previous seasons, Avsh Shalom Gur has continued to evolve the embellishment trends into both accessories (such as blinging belts) and a heavily decorated jacket.
There was also experimentation of fit with drapery in the form of fitted corsets with chiffon drapery that worked extremely well.
Although this collection didn’t feel the least bit wintery to me (not a bit of knitwear in sight!), it was without a doubt my favourite of the week, Gur did what he does best: beautiful designs in courageous colours, with fabrics he knows he can use to make magical dresses. Having read that he plans to scale down his own operation to fully look after Ossie Clark, I think he is balancing both remarkably. Long may it be so!
Rebecca Baum
International Fashion Writer
The last time I saw Avsh Alom Gur was for his current S/S 08 collection; the seated rows were full (in fact I was comfortably perched on a bench for that one!) and there were a number of standing spectators. However, it just shows what six months in fashion can do! This time the entire room was crammed to bursting with the fashion pack wanting a piece of this design genius (hence why I was about five rows back standing on tip toes!)
As I’m sure you all know Avsh Alom Gur is now also the creative director of Ossie Clark and this has made him (to most) the man of the moment.
The collection opened with a corseted piece and print skirt, which I must admit threw me a little. This wasn’t the Gur I knew! Where were all the beautiful draped dresses? Fear not fashion friends! After what I thought was an uncharacteristic opening (which included chiffon floor length dresses, trimmed in dyed furs), Gur regained his signature look in the form of floor length chiffon maxi dresses, plenty of his famous prints and embroidery detailing.
Dresses were incredibly waisted, and you would need a great (and tiny) waist to carry them off successfully! But they were truly beautiful. Gur works chiffon in such a way that there is a perfect amount of drapery and gather, to allow them to fall just so, always presenting them in a kaleidoscope of colours (this time the main being a chocolate brown).
Also on offer was delicate pleating that emulated corrugated card, and this provided a fabulous contrast of something so rigid created in something as delicate as chiffons and silks.
There was a definite African theme running through the collection’s prints, embroidery, colour palettes and the silhouettes.
Sleeves again were a big focus in this collection and I have seen many a fabulous voluminous sleeve this week (which I love!)
Watching Gur is a textile treat! Where else can I see burnt orange velvet with pink embroidery that should look evil, But in reality looks so sumptuous and magnificent that I’d like to run out and buy it. The burnt orange and pink velvet outfit was definitely my favourite, such contrasts working so perfectly, with fabulous pushed up three quarter sleeves gathered and draped so organically; reflecting the lights of the catwalk.
The colour palette consisted of beige, orange (both bright and burnt), brown (in various shades), gold and emerald blues and pale green and of course the A/W favourite, monochromes.
As with previous seasons, Avsh Shalom Gur has continued to evolve the embellishment trends into both accessories (such as blinging belts) and a heavily decorated jacket.
There was also experimentation of fit with drapery in the form of fitted corsets with chiffon drapery that worked extremely well.
Although this collection didn’t feel the least bit wintery to me (not a bit of knitwear in sight!), it was without a doubt my favourite of the week, Gur did what he does best: beautiful designs in courageous colours, with fabrics he knows he can use to make magical dresses. Having read that he plans to scale down his own operation to fully look after Ossie Clark, I think he is balancing both remarkably. Long may it be so!
Rebecca Baum
International Fashion Writer
Thursday, May 22, 2008
The Halter Dress...so in its wrapped around our finger too
Summer would not be summer without the summer dress...and the less fabric the more popular for heated season. Therefore there is no reason why this year the halter dress is THE DRESS. Every fashion magazine has shown this realization and Hetty is no different. In addition to the creative lack of fabric above the waist, halter dresses also give the consistent and of course independent option of color and style. Creativity is the one major thing we salute in Hetty and this dress is beyond and all around that objective.
Style meaning the cut of not only the straps but where they lie and the cut of what is below it. (Just above the waist of course). Whether its v neck, square neck or so low v neck it hits ur belly button....the list can go on and on...if only the summer could do the same thing? Even despite these aspects, there also is a joining of sorts to the designer's choice of dress cut and the realization that....as a previous post pointed out this is the season of the shoulder and with the halter the shoulder gets some show...with a little additive of fabric wrapped nearby.
Advice to use this is to know your figure no matter how fabulous the dress is. While it is still the year of the shoulder you should always listen to that fashionista within as well as the full length mirror in front of you. But remember to love what you wear as much as you love yourself....otherwise the outfit just doesn't work.
Style meaning the cut of not only the straps but where they lie and the cut of what is below it. (Just above the waist of course). Whether its v neck, square neck or so low v neck it hits ur belly button....the list can go on and on...if only the summer could do the same thing? Even despite these aspects, there also is a joining of sorts to the designer's choice of dress cut and the realization that....as a previous post pointed out this is the season of the shoulder and with the halter the shoulder gets some show...with a little additive of fabric wrapped nearby.
Advice to use this is to know your figure no matter how fabulous the dress is. While it is still the year of the shoulder you should always listen to that fashionista within as well as the full length mirror in front of you. But remember to love what you wear as much as you love yourself....otherwise the outfit just doesn't work.
Thursday, May 15, 2008
A Designer's Life
Designer, artist, or a creative soul, whatever you might want to call, we never sleep.
We are always looking for ways, techniques, and inspirations to make our product better, more creative and more pleasing to the eye. That’s what makes our profession different from any other. We are always on a run for ideas; we never know what will inspire us, whether it’s a bird, a tree, piece of furniture, texture on the streets or fabric, music or an emotion. It’s absolutely beyond our immediate understanding. The creative juices are always flowing, in our dreams, in our thoughts and in our hearts. We are constantly thinking how to make a product better, even when we are watching what other people are wearing. We are always thinking how I would have made it better or worn it different etc.
The day of a designer starts with perhaps meditating in the morning for calming our soul for a fresh start, for a new day or for some having a cup of coffee, running in the shower to get ready for a corporate job that doesn’t wait for us but we want to run to or after. After bathing, we perhaps look at our closest to decide whether we want to look creative today or perhaps professional, or should we go with the Chanel look or the Dior, or Cavalli for that matter. After all that’s decided then comes the accessories, the hair, makeup and the jacket depending on the mad and unpredictable weather of New York.
On the train either reading WWD (Women’s wear daily, the bible of the Fashion Industry) or figuring out what’s the first thing we need to do once we reach the office or simply sleeping and for some who are always running late and wearing makeup on the train, while the people around are watching and wandering why the makeup cant be worn at home or why is it even important to wear makeup.
The day at work, stress, stress, and some more stress. Deadlines, communicating with over seas factories for issues and concerns, calling fabric, trim vendors, asking them when are we getting the buttons, when is the fabric reaching the office, negotiating prices, searching magazines for inspirations, getting the projects done for presentations for the buyers, getting projects done for meetings, color meetings, meetings with vendors, trend meetings, sales meetings. Then we say to ourselves, if we have so many meetings how can we meet deadlines, how will we have time to create something which is so beautiful and divine and at the same time sellable. Alas lunch time, lunch is usually on our desk in front of our computer, while we are having lunch we are also emailing or figuring out what next, should we tackle an easier project first or something less complicated or should be just sketch and create away to glory and finally we look at our wrist to see what time it is, whether it is end of the day yet or not or can we go home early today or perhaps not.
A designer not all creates but sees the process and makes sure everything a garment needs is there. From a sketch we bring it to reality, a reality which we see people wearing or perhaps even on the runway.. It’s just like a baby.
Tapti Tapan
Designer
Soul By Tapti Tapan
We are always looking for ways, techniques, and inspirations to make our product better, more creative and more pleasing to the eye. That’s what makes our profession different from any other. We are always on a run for ideas; we never know what will inspire us, whether it’s a bird, a tree, piece of furniture, texture on the streets or fabric, music or an emotion. It’s absolutely beyond our immediate understanding. The creative juices are always flowing, in our dreams, in our thoughts and in our hearts. We are constantly thinking how to make a product better, even when we are watching what other people are wearing. We are always thinking how I would have made it better or worn it different etc.
The day of a designer starts with perhaps meditating in the morning for calming our soul for a fresh start, for a new day or for some having a cup of coffee, running in the shower to get ready for a corporate job that doesn’t wait for us but we want to run to or after. After bathing, we perhaps look at our closest to decide whether we want to look creative today or perhaps professional, or should we go with the Chanel look or the Dior, or Cavalli for that matter. After all that’s decided then comes the accessories, the hair, makeup and the jacket depending on the mad and unpredictable weather of New York.
On the train either reading WWD (Women’s wear daily, the bible of the Fashion Industry) or figuring out what’s the first thing we need to do once we reach the office or simply sleeping and for some who are always running late and wearing makeup on the train, while the people around are watching and wandering why the makeup cant be worn at home or why is it even important to wear makeup.
The day at work, stress, stress, and some more stress. Deadlines, communicating with over seas factories for issues and concerns, calling fabric, trim vendors, asking them when are we getting the buttons, when is the fabric reaching the office, negotiating prices, searching magazines for inspirations, getting the projects done for presentations for the buyers, getting projects done for meetings, color meetings, meetings with vendors, trend meetings, sales meetings. Then we say to ourselves, if we have so many meetings how can we meet deadlines, how will we have time to create something which is so beautiful and divine and at the same time sellable. Alas lunch time, lunch is usually on our desk in front of our computer, while we are having lunch we are also emailing or figuring out what next, should we tackle an easier project first or something less complicated or should be just sketch and create away to glory and finally we look at our wrist to see what time it is, whether it is end of the day yet or not or can we go home early today or perhaps not.
A designer not all creates but sees the process and makes sure everything a garment needs is there. From a sketch we bring it to reality, a reality which we see people wearing or perhaps even on the runway.. It’s just like a baby.
Tapti Tapan
Designer
Soul By Tapti Tapan
Monday, May 12, 2008
Fashionable Tech: The Next Generation
Without realizing it, mobile phones have become a part of the fashion industry landscape in recent years. When people leave their homes, their phones now are going everywhere with them. The styles of cell phones are changing like every fashion trend, slim phones, flip phones, red phones, and iPhones, as people make statements about themselves. This is not a North American phenomenon, but a global one, with over 3 billion mobile phone users worldwide.As phone models and colors were the early fashion statements, ringtones and digital content have started to provide the next level of personalization in most recent years.
Whether it's 50 Cent or Madonna, hip hop or pop, people change ringtones regularly to express their moods and their individuality. People from all over the world are downloading ringtones as a fashion accessory, whether it comes from Hollywood in the US or Bollywood in India, this is truly a global fashion trend.The ringtones fashion industry was a multi-billion dollar business in the US alone this year, and is expected to increase as more artists and fashion designers enter the market. As the business grows, exports of this new content will grow, with Indies becoming a bigger part of the market.
Like in the fashion world, for all the big names there are thousands of independent designers making their mark, as is the case of digital content. For every Madonna, there are thousands of independent artists that are trying to become the next big hit. Same is the scenario with wallpapers as new fashion magazines and modeling agencies have started to sell exclusive mobile wallpapers of their models globally. Welcome to Fashion 2.0 as the digital age becomes a bigger part of individual expression.
For more information or to get the new fashion tech bug, check out www.ooober.mobi.
Layla Robin,
Contributing Tech Writer
Whether it's 50 Cent or Madonna, hip hop or pop, people change ringtones regularly to express their moods and their individuality. People from all over the world are downloading ringtones as a fashion accessory, whether it comes from Hollywood in the US or Bollywood in India, this is truly a global fashion trend.The ringtones fashion industry was a multi-billion dollar business in the US alone this year, and is expected to increase as more artists and fashion designers enter the market. As the business grows, exports of this new content will grow, with Indies becoming a bigger part of the market.
Like in the fashion world, for all the big names there are thousands of independent designers making their mark, as is the case of digital content. For every Madonna, there are thousands of independent artists that are trying to become the next big hit. Same is the scenario with wallpapers as new fashion magazines and modeling agencies have started to sell exclusive mobile wallpapers of their models globally. Welcome to Fashion 2.0 as the digital age becomes a bigger part of individual expression.
For more information or to get the new fashion tech bug, check out www.ooober.mobi.
Layla Robin,
Contributing Tech Writer
Thursday, May 8, 2008
Recycling at its Best~For The Fashion World!
Recently, I came across an amazing designer who, in her own way, averted from the usual by the most miniscule but strengthened aspect: the material she uses. Palvika Rathod, a United Kingdom local uses all hand embroidered using recycled threads and fabrics. The result is not only independent and incredible, but also very femine. Inspired by global fashion and creating a collection of mainly dresses. .The operating principle behind her label is simple: reusing surplus such as off-cuts, pre consumer surplus, end of roll, damaged fabrics at the end of each producing season.
All of her collections are entirely made up unwanted and discarded materials. Despite this, they are as she stated perfectly useable, and still functional; each piece is individually cut from high quality reclaimed fabrics including cotton, jersey, tweeds and wovens but no silks.
Her findings come from rescue efforts from their journey towards destruction and individually customised with elaborate crochet trims and details. The result is simple shapes for maximum wearability and try to balance between a contemporary approach to fashion design and an ethical solution to borrowing from past materials.
As a result of this, she has also shaped her participation in fashion events to this objective. For example, she has taken part in a chartity fashion show called Mode north West in carlisle hosted by Helena King and Garth Gatrix. She also takes part in events for social objectives such as taking part in fashion for peace event in Kenya to to promote peace after the recent political crisis.
This line is incredible to say the least, Hetty invites you to research this designer.....she will become an obession of yours as it has mine.
Stay Fabulous!
Heather Bachman
Editor-In-Chief
All of her collections are entirely made up unwanted and discarded materials. Despite this, they are as she stated perfectly useable, and still functional; each piece is individually cut from high quality reclaimed fabrics including cotton, jersey, tweeds and wovens but no silks.
Her findings come from rescue efforts from their journey towards destruction and individually customised with elaborate crochet trims and details. The result is simple shapes for maximum wearability and try to balance between a contemporary approach to fashion design and an ethical solution to borrowing from past materials.
As a result of this, she has also shaped her participation in fashion events to this objective. For example, she has taken part in a chartity fashion show called Mode north West in carlisle hosted by Helena King and Garth Gatrix. She also takes part in events for social objectives such as taking part in fashion for peace event in Kenya to to promote peace after the recent political crisis.
This line is incredible to say the least, Hetty invites you to research this designer.....she will become an obession of yours as it has mine.
Stay Fabulous!
Heather Bachman
Editor-In-Chief
Monday, May 5, 2008
A Decoration of Dreams
Hetty would like to invite you to one of many designers we call our Obsession worthy picks: SOul by Tapi Tapan...please see below a personalized invitation and discussion straight from the designer!!!!
I have a line of womens wear, cocktail dresses as well as contemporary wear. The line consists of long and short dresses in unique fabrics, trims and textures. I also have a full line of home textile collection which consists of duvet covers, cushion covers, pillow cases and curtains, and lampshades. The home line consists of beautiful fabrics, texture and colors. The lampshades were sold at ABC carpet and home.
I have held two fashion shows, have exhibited at the jacob javit home textile show, and also have held a solo exhibition for a non-profit organization.My stuff can be viewed underhttp://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=7867695694
Stay Fabulous!!!!!
I have a line of womens wear, cocktail dresses as well as contemporary wear. The line consists of long and short dresses in unique fabrics, trims and textures. I also have a full line of home textile collection which consists of duvet covers, cushion covers, pillow cases and curtains, and lampshades. The home line consists of beautiful fabrics, texture and colors. The lampshades were sold at ABC carpet and home.
I have held two fashion shows, have exhibited at the jacob javit home textile show, and also have held a solo exhibition for a non-profit organization.My stuff can be viewed underhttp://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=7867695694
Stay Fabulous!!!!!
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